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Safe, portable scaffolding enables user to side and paint vertical surfaces up to 30 feet high. Pump Jack system raises workers, equipment and materials with a push of the foot and lowers by turning hand crank. Your weight does the work. It is perfect for shingling, siding, sheathing, insulating, painting, building, roofing, home repair and maintenance. Requires a minimum of two Pump Jacks to operate. Easy setup and takedown. Uses 4in. x 4in. or double 2in. x 4in. wooden posts, not included. U.S.A.
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Technical Details
- Pump jack for low-cost, easy foot-operated jacking; secures to wood poles- Pump Jack Platform accomodates two 2"x10" wood planks with toe boards attached
- Rugged steel construction for strength, durable powder-coat finish to resist rust
- Includes 1 jack; does not include wood poles
- 8 by 22-1/2 by 25 inches; 18.4 pounds
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By Glenn R. Kangiser (Mariposa, CA)
This pump jack scaffold is a great low cost way to have scaffolding available for even longer term projects without buying or paying rent to a rental company and ending up with nothing.
You can buy the guard rail supports or just nail up handrails at about 21 and 42 inches high, to the extended scaffold posts (double 2x4 per instructions) and save the money. Be sure to block off the ends. OSHA has specs for scaffold jacks you can read online to be safe and legal (if you have employees).
Wood can be used to make the required bracing to the building every 10 feet also if desired.
By Paul in NY (New York)
Having never used or purchased a pump jack system before I bought the system in pieces. Nowhere that I saw are needed quantities listed.
I called the vendor to ask if the jacks themselves were priced per pair.
After they arrived I figured out that you need multiple braces. Then, I found out there were local vendors and I bought additional braces at a lower price than I paid online. The system works but after buying the jacks for $75 each, I saw Lowes has Werner jacks for $49. Oh well.
As mentioned in other reviews, the heavy red paint on the Qual-Craft parts immediately flakes off all over the place and the cotter pins are a pain.
By David K. Dalpezzo (Glen Rock, PA)
Homeowner review.
I have three of these set up on 24' long double 2x4 columns and have been using them for a week now. Here's my first impression:
- toss the included cotter pins into your parts bin and use removable clips. The whole system is designed to be put together onto the column - why they include cotter pins versus removable pins is anyone's guess.
- MAKE SURE your joints along the 2" sides of the 2x4 are smooth and without offsets. I had a 2x4 that wasn't cut perfectly true (from the factory) and the system kept hanging up on this when lowering it. It was only jutting out 1/16" too - nothing of concern when I built it. Next time I build the columns or before I use these again I'm going to run a belt sander along the edge to true it.
- The release mechanism to lower it is a pain in the butt to get to. No position you get into to be able to lower the unit is comfortable. But, it does work and I feel safe lowering it.
- Plan to tap the lowering level with a hammer to release it from the locked position. It's not always easy to move it from locked to unlocked for lowering, and more than once (but less than 1/3 of the time) I had to use a hammer to tap it out into position.
- The twist design needs updating. It's a VERY jerky ride down as the handle turns.
- The pumping process works as designed. However, as with lowering, make sure the column edges (where you can see the double 2x4) is smooth.
- The system needs guides to keep it centered. One of my columns (which were perfectly level when I set up) is gouged on the side because the pump jack "rivets" dug in when raising. It has about 5/8 of a gap on the sides of the jack, but nothing is there to maintain it in center. I am studying this now to see if there is something I can have fabricated to maintain center on my set.
I am raising my system within 40" from the top of the 24' columns. I didn't feel very comfortable with this height (my land slopes downward, so I had the height and the slope to look at, which compounded the height aspect a lot). Right now, I feel very comfortable at this height on this system, because:
- I added 2x4 "X" bracing to the bottoms of the columns. I don't lower the whole way down - I stop about 12' from the bottom and use a ladder to get me to a deck that's next to my work area.
- I added steel conduit channel (12 gauge) horizontal bracing above the "X" bracing. Overkill to be sure, but I'm not fond of heights and this added even more support to the "X" bracing. (this may be a mental stability thing - the "X" bracing was adequate, but.....)
- My scaffold is sturdy. I have two 2x10's, 12' long, with 5/8" plywood on the bottom side (to address the tension component of the bow weight will give to the 2x10's), and each 2x10 has 4" of 3M grip tape centered on them. They weigh a ton (each), but I feel very secure walking across the "bridge" and I built them to last me a lifetime.
I have the workbench attachments on my system as well. I use an aluminum scaffold on this and have been using my 8 1/2" sliding compound miter saw on it without issue. The 2x4's the workbench attachment uses for the safety railings really give me a sense of security since I know where the back edge is when I'm working.
Overall, I'm happy with this system. If I were to need it for my livlihood, I'd make some major design changes and would have a set custom built, but for homeowner or occasional contractor use, I'd buy them again.
Oh - it takes two people to put up the columns if you want to do it safely. They have some weight to them, even tho they don't look like they would. Too much weight to manhandle on a ladder (safely).
As I stated in the bracing review, there is no way I can find to have this system wrap around a corner. I have a need for this and will be building my own corner brace so I can put one of these jacks on the outside corner and laying "side B" scaffold on top of "side A" scaffold. I don't understand why a corner system wasn't produced by the manufacturer - it seems like a logical thing to have.
By Kevin R. Fowler (Seattle, WA)
Jacks were painted after assembly - which led to the parts jaming. Very difficult to get to work properly - often jammed and either wouldn't go up or wouldn't go down. Only instructions were on a sticker in micro font on the jack - could have used some pictures.
By John Cambouris
I bought a pair of these pump jack at Menards, a midwestern version of a discounted Home Depot. They were about $20 cheaper a pair. Anyway, although these things do save time instead of climbing up and down a ladder, they are a real pain to use. They keep getting stuck when I try to lower them, and they even get stuck when trying to raise them. I've experimented with them and found out that on one pump jack, I had to make sure the crank used to lower the jack must be pushed into the square hole as per instructions, while the other pump jack didn't work this way. It didn't matter if The crank was in the square hole or not. And then when I wanted to raise the jack again, I had to use a hammer to knock the crank back out of the square hole since it wouldn't budge no matter what I did. I also STRONGLY recommend using braces every 10 feet of pole height to give the setup more horizontal stability.
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